Japan Travel Diary 2017 2 weeks in Tokyo

Tokyo

Sometimes I find it difficult to describe Tokyo. What is the real Tokyo? Is it the crowds scrambling across the road in Shibuya? The carefully tended gardens of the Imperial gardens? The frantic energy of shop girls as sales season descends upon Harajuku? The moments of reverie found in the temples and shrines dotted everywhere? Or the uniform steps of salary men and women making their way to and from work?

Although Tokyo is commonly known as a city that never sleeps, to me it is also a city of dreams. I think that I am so enraptured by this metropolis because it is all of these things that I love, all at once. Sure, I’ve had my fair share of bad experiences and I will be among the first to tell people that Japan has its fair share of seedy and downright disturbing. Even then, Tokyo has an almost electrifying magnetic pull. I know that it won’t be too long before I return again.

It took me a few visits to Japan before I eventually got to my favourite places in Tokyo. Even then I am still constantly discovering new suburbs, restaurants, and shops that I can’t help but effusively gush over.

I won’t be writing a day by day run down of my two weeks in Tokyo. Instead, this post is just the start of a long list of places that I visited and enjoyed. It’s a little haphazard, but do check back as I hope to update often.

To do 
One Piece Tokyo Tower
Imperial Gardens and Palace
Asakusa
Tsukiji markets
Ghibli Musuem
Temari no ouchi cat cafe
Koenji
Jiyugaoka
Shimokitazawa

To eat

Sweets 
Hidemi Sugino
Echire
Berry Parlour (cafe comme ca)
Patisserie Paris S’evile
Kao san
Patisserie Dominique Ansel
Salon Bake and Tea
Takano Fruits parlour
Pierre Herme
Patisserie Bien-etre
Parfait run down

Fine Dining 
Jimbocho Den
Le Sputnik
L’effervescence
La Table de Joël Robuchon
Beige by Alan Ducasse

Cafes
All C’s cafe
Potato Cream cafe
Aoyama flower market tea house (Aoyama / Akasaka)
Tolo Bakery and Cafe
Salon Ginza Sabou
Cafe du Lievre

Casual Eateries 
Sushi Midori
Sushi Zanmai
Sushi Dai
Yutaka
French Curry Spoon
Soup Curry
Seirinkan
Fuunji
Ginza Kagari
Ramen Afuri

Drinks 
Sakurai tea house

If you have any recommendations please let me know! I can’t wait to discover your version of Tokyo as well.

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Japan Travel Diary 2017: Nagoya

When I told my friends about my Japan itinerary half were puzzled by the seemingly random zig-zag I was making around the country. Whereas the other half commented that I was visiting all the places with good food. I think that throwing Nagoya into the mix definitely made people think that this was just one big foodie trip! With that in mind, I made it my goal to eat as many regional dishes otherwise known as, meibutsu as I possibly could.

Nagoya Day 19

After a few weeks of travel, we decided to sleep in and have a late start. It was already roughly a 35-minute journey from our apartment to Tokyo station. By the time we finally arrived at Nagoya station it was already lunchtime!

On the train ride, I spent my energies describing the foods that my friend Steph had taken me to eat whilst we were both on exchange. Visions of Miso katsu, tebasaki wings, noodles and hitsumabushi flashing through my mind, I looked up where to eat and consulted with Steph via line.

Misokatsu yabaton was an obvious choice. It was conveniently located in Nagoya station but there are branches all over the city. There are a couple of nonpork-based dishes, but I think almost everyone was there for the signature miso katsudon. A thick sweet and salty miso sauce is liberally poured over freshly fried pork cutlets. Ryan decided to compare the miso sauce with a simpler Worcester. The consensus was that the miso sauce was much better. The red miso was jam-packed with umami flavour and made it so easy to finish my rather generous bowl of rice.

As we’ve previously established, Ryan loves trains. Especially Japanese trains. It seemed like a given that we would visit SCMAGLEV and railway park while in Nagoya. The closest station: Kinjofuto is fittingly, a bit of a train ride out of the city centre.

The actual station is in a newly developed area right on the port. The bright blue sea and even brighter sky prompted me to rummage around in my bag for the camera. It was at this moment that I realised I had left it behind in the restaurant! You’ll have to excuse the lack of photos because of this.

At this point, I decided to head right back to Nagoya station to see if I could find the camera! I urged Ryan to head on into the museum without me. I figured that I would find the camera and celebrate with some shopping. Alternatively, I wouldn’t find the camera and instead, spend some time talking to station attendants and the restaurant staff and then try to lift my spirits with some retail therapy.

With considerable relief, the restaurant had found and kept the camera for sake keeping. After shooting a quick message to Ryan I went off on my merry way to do a spot of shopping. Violet Blue was surprisingly fruitful. I picked up several accessories before walking over to Osu Street.

Osu Street is a pretty typical Japanese shoutengai. In many ways, that means that it is less glitzy than the shopping malls and almost all about street-level shops. There were a few rather charming furniture and nic-nac stores and generally more of a bohemian fashion vibe. The biggest point of difference for this shoutengai is just how many food options there were! Contrary to usual Japanese etiquette people weren’t hesitating to eat whilst walking. At the end of the shops, there’s a rather impressive temple as well.

With a spring in my step, I made my way over to Sakae. Whereas Osu street is more traditional, Sakae is the true downtown of Nagoya. The wide boulevards and streets are blocked off from cars on weekends. Strolling across the wide streets and into an array of department stores may not be for everyone, but there’s a little bit of everything here, from shopping, restaurants and even a small amusement park. Sakae Nova was my favourite building if only for the Jane Marple and Innocent World stores. I arranged to meet Ryan here while I window shopped my heart out.

By Ryan’s account, SCMAGLEV and railway park was amazing. He was particularly taken with the large-scale dioramas that showed a full days worth of train networks in Tokyo and Nagoya. He also highly recommends trying to get a ticket to run a train simulator. Even the simplest of the trains was a cacophony of buttons and levers that would confuse almost everyone.

After spending our whole commute to Nagoya telling Ryan about all the tasty foods in Nagoya I managed to convince him to give Histumabushi a try. Hitsumabushi Bincho Lachic branch just happened to be nearby.

To describe hitsumabushi as unagi-don (eel on rice) would be a complete understatement. The process for eating Hitsumabushi is almost ritualistic. The rice and eel are portioned into quarters. The first portion goes into a small bowl to be tried on its own. To the second portion, one adds garnishes such as wasabi, nori and green onions. The third portion is had ocha-zuke style. That is, a mild dashi and green tea broth are poured on top of everything. I like to add a bit of wasabi at this point too. The fourth and final portion is left for you to have whatever way you liked best.

Before we left Nagoya station I quickly nipped into the souvenir store and picked up another Nagoya specialty: kishimen. Apparently many travelers and salarymen pop off the train at Nagoya station just to slurp down a quick bowl of kishimen before continuing their journey.

We weren’t able to try the real deal whilst in Nagoya so we settled for the next best thing: a comforting bowl of kishimen cooked up in our Tokyo apartment. I think Ryan described this best as flattened udon noodles. The slightly sweet broth that was included in the packet had just enough flavour to stand on its own, but mild enough to go with all the ingredients we chucked in.

Tips
With a JR pass, it is very easy to take a day trip from Tokyo to Nagoya. From Tokyo station by shinkansen, it only takes around 2 hours. However, once you get to Nagoya, JR lines are hardly used. Instead, it is well serviced by the metro. Depending on how much you plan to travel it may be more economical to buy a one day pass. I found that the walk between stations in downtown Nagoya was very manageable with plenty to see along the way. Getting downtown from the station might be more of a trek.

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Please look forward to my next post. I’ll be changing things up a little when it comes to documenting my time in Tokyo and also going back to regularly scheduled food blogging!

Japan Travel Diary 2017: Kyushu to Tokyo overnight

I was a bit hesitant to write this post up. There’s so many posts up about overnight trains in Japan and I’m not sure what else I can add to them. However, for the sake of completeness I thought that it would be a good idea to add this in.

Fukuoka – Tokyo day 17

Remember the castella from Nagasaki? Turns out 4000 yen goes a long way in castella buying. In the name of science, I thought that it would be a good idea to taste test these two different castellas. The one on the left is the standard castella from Bunmeido, whereas the one on the right is the premium castella from Fukusaya. The standard castellas was roughly 1000 yen whereas the premium was 3000 yen.

Honestly, I was already a little bit in love with the standard castella when I first tore into it in Nagasaki. Therefore, I was pretty dubious as to how much better the more expensive castella could be. My first bites left me unconvinced. Successful tastings would later tell me that the premium castella was a little less sweet but with a stronger honey flavour, a touch eggier and with no artificial taste in the slightest. Just writing about these cakes is making me salivate right now.

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While we were in Japan it was the midst of basketball season. Being the NBA fanatic that he is Ryan set up at Wired cafe for the morning to stream the games live. I choose to fill out my dairy and go shopping in JR Hakata city instead. After getting lost a few times, buying enough sunscreen and makeup to last for the rest of the trip and some meandering around we met up again, only to plan to eat even more food.

We had eaten ramen every day we were in Fukuoka and we weren’t going to stop now. Luckily Ramen issou was almost right next to the station. This store is known for its slightly frothy looking tonkotsu soup broth. Though less oily and salty than Hakata Daruma, the broth had a deep pork flavour. Instead of overloading the senses with richness, this broth had a few layers to it. There was a slight sourness to it, which had me going back to the bowl for taste after taste.

Unfortunately, after this ramen, Ryan and I took turns in feeling unwell. Perhaps it was the combination of hot sweaty weather and blasting air conditioning or all the fatty ramen we had eaten in the past few days but the next few hours were spent in a slightly painful stupor. Somehow, we managed to gather all of our belongings and make our way over to Okayama in anticipation of a very exciting trip.

A little-known fact about Ryan is that he loves trains. Perhaps he has spent too much time reading ‘Night on the galactic railway’ as it’s always been one of his dreams to take a sleeper train in Japan. On our previous trip, we had researched the possibility of taking the Cassiopeia sleeper train all the way to Hokkaido. It turned out that taking a plane was simply more cost and time efficient so we gave the whole thing a miss. Naturally, he was devasting when the Cassiopeia was discontinued before we got a chance to ride it. This time he couldn’t afford to miss taking the Seto sunrise from Okayama to Tokyo.

It’s clear from the outset that the seto sunrise is worlds away from the smooth and sleek shinkansen. The train rocked a hell of a lot. You’ll have to excuse the somewhat blurry photos! Our tickets were for the cheapest seats. I would describe these as an open capsule hotel type arrangement.  There’s nowhere to store luggage, so you’ll have to sleep with your bags. I can sleep almost anywhere and in any situation so this wasn’t really a problem for me.

In spite of the rocking we explored almost every nook and cranny. The actual cabins are fairly small. There’s not much room to move, but it appeared that there were slippers and bed sheets. Thoroughly exhausted from the heat of the day I nodded off quickly. I woke up a few times throughout the night because I found the air conditioning a bit too cold. However, for the most part I slept pretty well! My scarf doubled up as a pillow and warm blanket!

Tokyo: Day 18 morning

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Bleary-eyed we pulled up into Tokyo station. The seto sunrise seemed to be a bit of a treat for Tokyoites as well. Locals on the platforms outside were snapping pictures of the train as we started getting ready to disembark.

Riding the seto sunrise was definitely a once in a lifetime experience. It’s definitely not the most comfortable form of transport or accommodation. However, as sleeper trains become a form of luxury travel it felt a little surreal to be taking the last of what was once a dense network of night trains. Perhaps one day soon this train will also be discontinued and replaced with another luxury train. Until then, this is as close to a night on the galactic railroad I can afford.

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Tips
If you’re not in Japan for a long time it might be hard to catch the seto sunrise. Tickets can only be bought at JR stations in Japan and they only go on sale a month in advance. Although we booked two weeks and a bit in advance we weren’t able to get tickets next to each other and the station attendant told us that they were, in fact, the last tickets left!

The train provides some simple bedding but not much else. There’s a vending machine to buy rather expensive drinks but no food. It’s a good idea to stock up at the convenience store beforehand. There’s also a shower station, but if you want to freshen up you’re going to have pay. Tickets are purchasable from a vending machine in the train cabins. A ticket will give you 6 minutes of water but unlimited time to towel off and get dry.

This link provides a pretty good explanation of the different seating arrangements for each cabin and what the interior of the train looks like.

Japan Travel Diary 2017: Kyushu

Years back when I was in Japan on exchange, I became good friends with a girl whose hometown was Fukuoka. Whenever I was lost with tea ceremony club her smiles and encouragement were always there for me. A long way from home, she would sometimes show me photos of the sites and tell me about the foods that she missed. The brief tid bits she shared with me about her home instantly piqued my curiosity and with each anecdote, Kyushu rose higher and higher on my list of places to visit.

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My friend had recommended Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine as a bit of a day trip from the centre of the city. The whole strip of stores up to the temple and the temple itself was a lot more touristy than I expected. For visitors from Korea and China, this seemed to be the first (or only) temple they would see on their Japan trip. This makes sense considering the close proximity of Kyushu to these countries, but also took me by surprise as I wasn’t expecting this to be such a crowded area.

Somewhat unhelpfully there was very little English signage. We were a little lost at what it was that we were meant to be appreciating. However, a quick google search revealed that this temple is dedicated to a very famous Japanese scholar. Consequently, throngs of Japanese students head to it, hoping that they will be granted luck on their entrance exams. While we were there it felt like there was a whole platoon of students streaming through the whole time.

A little put off by the crowds, we made our own fun by mucking around in the amusement park nearby and observing everyone around us. I briefly pondered going for a hike in the area, as apparently the trails are very beautiful but the humidity and inappropriate foot wear choice meant that instead, we headed back to Fukuoka city.

Usually, I’m not one for themed cafes. However, the Tower records cafe x Sumikko gurashi was too cute to resist. It also helps that I have a weakness for the cute little corner dwelling mascot characters. I admit that I hugged almost every plushie that was in sight. The food was surprisingly tasty and filling for a themed cafe. The drinks, cute as they were, were definitely on the over priced side.

Ryan ordered the avocado and beef from the regular menu. He had an emotional moment as he ate chunks of meat again for the first time in days. I had to have something from the themed menu. Penguin’s locomoco was cute and delicious when doused in the delicious brown sauce on the side of the plate. The drinks, cute as they were, were definitely on the over priced side.

A little bit stuck on what to do we ended up taking the train to Ohori Park. All the online descriptions state that this is a Chinese style garden, with a pagoda and lake in the centre, but that really doesn’t do the park justice. Our little jaunt around the park ended up with a swan boat ride in the middle of the pond. While paddling and wandering we saw a multitude of wildlife and joggers making their way around.

The next stop was Momochihama Beach. As someone from Darwin Ryan loves the beach. He was pretty excited at the prospect of the finally being able to go to a beach. However, when we got to this man made beach he couldn’t hide his dissapointment. What greeted us was a sliver of sand with half set up volley ball nets and food stalls. Most of the Japanese people were sitting around on the beach and mucking around as opposed to actually swimming.

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Since it was in the area we quickly dropped into Robosquare. Admission to this little exhibit is free. Almost all of the robots are Japanese language operated, so a basic grasp of Japanese certainly helped in enjoying the interactive displays.

We made it back to Canal City just in time for a special interactive light and water show. I know almost nothing about One Peice, but Ryan is a massive fan of the series. He watched on enraptured by the special effects and story line.

Fukuoka may be famous for Hakata ramen, but there’s actually a lot more variety. Kurume ramen is the predecessor of the more well known Hakata style ramen. Instead of making new stock and adding fat to it, Kurume ramen builds from older remaining stock for their ramen broth. Located in Ramen Stadium (or the rather comically misspelled raumen stadium) Honda Shoten is one of the most convenient places to try this style of ramen.

The normal ramen was definitely very porky, but not nearly as fatty as the ramen we tried the day before. This was actually a touch on the lukewarm and overly salty side. If I was in Melbourne I would be ecstatic to find ramen of this quality anywhere, but in Japan this was an average but satisfying bowl.

The special chilli ramen was a little bit more unique. On the spoon was  a little ball of fat, for extra richness and flavour. When it was all melted the broth was definitely oilier and stuck on the lips a little bit more. It was also surprsingly spicy!

Fukuoka – Kumamoto Day 16

Perhaps it was the humid Kyushu weather but we had a few late starts while in Fukuoka. Our first stop of the day was a pasta restaurant in Hakata central. I was on the search for anything with mentaiko and this pasta was sadly the closest that I got.

As soon as we got to Kumamoto station we saw Kumamon left, right and centre. It’s safe to say that this ever popular bear mascot can be found almost everywhere in the city. I’m very fond of the derpy looking Kumamon and I will readily admit that it’s only thanks to him that I know what and where Kumamoto is.

It seems that in the South of Japan trams feature much more heavily. In Kumamoto the trams have a lot of rustic charm, and actually vaguely reminded me of the city loop trams in Melbourne.

Our first stop was Kumamon square. This was actually one of the most crowded areas we went to. Tourists from Taiwan, Hong Kong and an array of other Asian countries were all cooing over the cute goods available. Kumamon even found a new fan in Ryan, as he appreciated all the collaboration items and variety show specials in the area.

We somehow lucked upon advertising for local school’s cultural festival. For those that don’t know, Japanese high schools and middle schools hold cultural festivals every year. These are almost like big festivals that are open to the general public. the classes and clubs put on various stalls, stores and performances for those visiting. As part of the advertising we managed to see these talented kids performing all over the shopping district.

We couldn’t go to Kyushu and not try the local delicacies. Yokobachi is a bit of an upscale izakaya where there’s a bit of everything Kyushu. Of particular note was my first taste of basashi and  motsunabe. I pleasantly surprised by the clear mostunabe soup which reminded me of traditional Chinese broths.

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We actually didn’t visit any of the historical attractions in Kumamoto. The closest we got was seeing Kumamoto castle in the distance. Even if we had wanted to I’m not sure if we would have been able to see all of them, as they are still repairing after devastating earthquakes. That said, I dare say we stumbled upon something even better and more memorable.

If you’re even in Fukuoka at night, you have to go to a Yatai. Although Japan is an eater’s dream I find that there’s not much in the way of street food. That’s where Yatai come in. Originally found Japan wide to feed the hungry working classes at all times of the night, Yatai are now almost exclusive to Fukuoka.

Vendors set up their tiny stalls as evening falls, and a mix of locals and tourists all cram in together to enjoy the food. By daylight, everything is all cleaned up, and it’s as if no one was ever there. We had already eaten earlier that day in Kumamoto but Ryan couldn’t resist ordering a ramen. I settled in with a high ball, apparently the drink of choice at a Yatai and dug into some mentaiko and grilled skewers.

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When I told locals that I was going to Fukuoka they would always mention that the ramen was top notch and so were the girls! I’m sure that’s a winning combination for almost everyone.

Tips

If you’re interested in seeing Kumamon in Kumamon square he is in his office on certain days. Check the website for the times and dates to see him! There is a warning on the side of the website saying that it might be really crowded and visitors restricted.

When taking the tram in Kumamoto it is possible to switch trams and just pay for the one fare. Make sure you talk to the tram conductor and they will issue you a ticket, which allows you to make a transfer within 15 minutes without paying extra.

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Japan Travel Diary 2017 Kansai

The first time I went to Japan I actually only visited the Kansai region. The vibrant lights, the street food, the seemingly randomly placed Ferris wheels and the ports all left a deep impression on me. On subsequent visits, Kansai has been almost inescapable. It was one of the first places I went to with friends on exchange and also the first place I headed to via Shinkansen on our 2015 trip. Every time I go it’s like visiting an old friend.

Osaka – Kyoto day 6

There’s a reason why Kyoto is a tourist hot spot. The range of traditional buildings and culture makes it a must visit for first timers. I’ll be one of the first to admit that strolling around the wide streets of Kyoto in kimono has a lot of charm, but it is a bit hard to get around. The only way to get to a lot of the big tourist sites is by bus. They can get pretty cramped and some of the routes and stops are a little confusing.

 

Despite having been to Kyoto a number of times I had never seen the number one tourist destination: Kinkakuji. I thought that it was high time to rectify this situation and made it our first stop of the day.

Sure, the floating temple is very picturesque but in all honesty, I wasn’t all that impressed. The gold painted temple shone a little bit too bright, to the point where it almost looked fake. It doesn’t help that the throngs of people in the small space made it more difficult to see.

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Arashiyama is also another famous Koyoto destination that I have never been to. It’s actually outside of the Kyoto township. If you have a JR Pass, the closest station is Saga Arashiyama. The actual town is about 10 minutes walk away. Along the way, there are a few stores renting out kimonos and selling souvenirs.

 

Yojiya is famous for its oil blotting paper, but it is has since expanded into a variety of other things. The Yojiya café in Arashiyama had strong air conditioning and wasn’t full, which was the perfect combination. An ice cold yuzu lemonade slushie was a particularly welcome respite from the heat. Surprisingly, Ryan had a hot drink. He commented that the matcha latte was strong but also sweet. It also left his tongue a rather shocking bright green shade!

The curry rice with pork belly was surprisingly tasty. The vegetables were fresh and the fatty pork added a point of difference to the iconic dish. The Japanese style omurice rice was also rather different. Instead of tomato sauce, an almost soupy clear sauce.

 

Having eaten our fill and enjoyed the air-conditioning it was finally time to see the bamboo forest for which this area is famous. As with almost everywhere in Kyoto, the crowds stop it from being the serene contemplative spot that it could be. Instead, we enjoyed running amok the path and taking silly photos. The forest is fairly small and can be walked through very fast, but the cool breeze and occasional music players make it a nice place to linger.

 

As we made out way towards the river we passed by % Arabica. I had seen the cute cups on social media. As a sucker for marketing, I couldn’t help but line up for an iced coffee. Interestingly the ice coffee was just espresso with ice and milk, instead of a cold drip or filter brew. Despite the popularity of this place I honestly wouldn’t rate it that highly.

Even after the iced coffee I still hadn’t completely cooled down. Instead of walking up to the Monkey park, we slowly made our back to Saga Arashiyama. We took our time browsing through the stores and seeking out shade to make up for walking back, instead of taking the much closer Hankyu lines.

 

I will shamelessly admit that one of the reasons we were staying so close to the Umeda area was for Le Palet d’or. This chocolate store got its start in Osaka but is now also found in Tokyo. I was entranced by the images of decadent chocolate parfait that I had seen on Instagram. Our first parfait of the trip was one of the best. A sophisticated combination of well tempered dark milk and white chocolate with the house made red wine ice cream. The sugar flake topped everything off, adding a bit of crisp contrast and even more sugar!

Unfortunately, or perhaps, fortunately, the wait staff forgot to give us the chocolate tasting plate that I had ordered. This meant that we got some extra freebies of their signature chocolate. All of the chocolate was smooth, rich and complex. My favourite was probably the signature dark chocolate and gold.

On the way back to the airbnb we picked up some takoyaki and joined in with the last of people going home from work.

Osaka day 7

 

After Ryan saw my photos of a sumptuous seafood breakfast at Kuromon market, he insisted that we do the same. I’m not sure if it was because it was later on in the day, and it was tourist season but the market was incredibly crowded. Although the sashimi breakfast was decent, the crowds and need to shove people to get through the shoutengai was definitely a massive detractor.

 

Disappointed with the market, Ryan decided to have something that would definitely make him happy. That being Pablo. Pablo baked cheese tarts has to be one of my favourite Japanese chains. Although it’s now expanded all over Japan, to me Osaka is Pablo. We made it a point to visit the new(ish) Pablo cafe and try the cafe exclusive mini tarts.

I remain unconvinced about the takoyaki choux cream mini tart and the warm strawberry tart. In spite of this I still rather enjoyed the ambiance and ability to eat pablo without first needing to take it home.

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Afterward I had plans to meet with Danielle, an American lolita living in Osaka. We met at Cafe Mingus. Google maps failed me and I was got terribly lost, but that worked out great for both of us in the end! I had a great time chatting and then shopping with her. I’m eternally grateful for her showing me where the Innocent World head store is and also telling me that there was a sample sale!

 

For dinner, I rejoined Ryan for a few rounds of famous Osaka street food. I’m not sure how we fit it in but we had takoyaki, okonomiyaki, and kushi katsu!

Himeji day 8

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We set out fairly early to avoid the rain that was forecast for later that day. On our walk to Tenma station, I picked up some donuts from this cute store. I insisted that we go to shin-Osaka station so that we could ride the shinkansen again, such is my love of those trains!

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From Himeji station, there is a bit of a walk to the castle. Buses and taxis also run the route between the station and castle, but we didn’t really see any point in catching one. As we walked along the wide boulevard the castle came closer and closer in sight.

 

Before getting to the castle proper we decided to explore the outer gardens and buildings. The West Bailey is most famous for the long corridor, but what I found more interesting were the various displays detailing the history and architecture of the castle.

Going up Himeji castle is a linear path of many steep flights of stairs. I had a bit of a knee injury from jogging, so it was a touch painful constantly going up and down stairs, but I still had a good time.

 

Just as we got to the top of the castle, we could hear thunder incoming. Our view of Himeji city fast became rather foggy. I’m sure it added to the atmosphere but it made me want to get out quickly and avoid getting rained on.

 

On our walk over to the castle, I had seen a sign advertising oden. At the time it was a bit muggy, but I soon became fixated on the idea of eating oden, even in the heat. Miraculously, the rain had brought the temperature down significantly and I could have a late oden lunch.

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We returned to Shinsaibashi to do my last bit of shopping in Osaka. Although I continued wandering around America mura nothing really caught my eye.

 

As hoards of tourists descended down upon Shinsaibashi we found refuge in Dalloyau. This French brand is one of the first purveyors of cake and tea in Japan. The Osaka location is special because it offers an all you can eat cake deal at certain times of the day. Alas, we had arrived a little bit too late, so instead, I got my sugar intake with the cake set. The half macaron was most curious. I wonder what they do with the other half. Whereas Ryan had his second parfait of the trip.

No matter how crowded and touristy it gets I’ll always have a soft spot in my heart for Osaka and Kyoto. On this trip, Ryan said that he doesn’t see himself going back to Osaka on subsequent trips to Japan, but I can’t help but disagree. Visiting Kansai is practically tradition and I’m not sure if my Japan trips will feel complete without it!

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Tips

We stayed in an Airbnb in the Tenma area. It is one stop away from Osaka station on JR lines. We found this really convenient considering how many day trips we took. It is also a bustling area in its own right. The shoutengai is considerably dated but has a lot of vintage charm.

In Kyoto, we bought the one-day bus pass just outside of Kyoto station. For a bus only pass it is only 500 yen for unlimited trips. Considering that the bus to kinkakuji is already 230 yen by itself this is a great deal. It also saves the need to fumble around for correct change.

Since 2015 Himeji is completely open to the public! It had been under refurbishment for the last several years. I highly recommend seeing it while everything is open. With a building as old and historic as Himeji, it’s probably only a few years until there is more construction.

Japan Travel Diary 2017: Koyasan

I first heard of Koyasan when I quizzed a vegetarian friend about her own Japan trip. When I asked her what her highlight was, she paused and said, probably Koyasan. I was immediately intrigued and bookmarked it for a future visit.

Koyasan is well known for a number of things, but of most interest to most foreign visitors is probably the chance to stay in a temple lodgings known as shokubo. Although I’m not religious in any way this was something new and different for both of us.

Kanazawa – Koyasan Day 4

 

We said goodbye to Kanazawa station, with a round of ice cream and bread. A series of long train rides and transfers later, we found ourselves slowly making our way up the mountain. The cable car up to the Summit is by far the steepest cable car I have ever taken in my life! I looked out at the scenery with a mix of fear and excitement.

At the top of the cable car station, there were station attendants who helped everyone get on the right bus to their lodgings. This is particularly important as pedestrian traffic is forbidden on the windy road between the cable car station and the actual town.

The temple we stayed at: Yochi-inn, was a little far from most of the other lodgings. However, it was by far the most reasonably priced temple lodgings we could find for our dates. As an added bonus, it was directly opposite from the main garan complex, which houses many of the most profilic temples in Koyasan.

 

One of the highlights of shokubo is shojin ryori, or traditional Buddhist cuisine. I was pleasantly surprised by just how flavourful the soup was. Despite being vegetarian it had a deep almost fishy flavour. I can’t say that I found the pickles that convincing, but the tempura and superb Japanese rice completed the meal.

 

Dinner finished rather early so we had time to do a brief bit of exploring. We wandered over to the Daimon and the start of a very long pilgrimage route. Seeing as the temple had a 9pm curfew, we weren’t too keen on starting a 4 day walking trail. Instead, we made our way back to the Garan temple complex and the rest of the town. Even by night the myriad of temples, small and large were incredibly impressive.

Koyasan – Osaka Day 5

At 6am it was already light but still very chilly. Somehow we managed to drag ourselves out of bed for morning service at 6:30am. 

If you’re expecting a completely authentic temple experience, this is not it. There are TVs in the rooms, the monks ask if you would like alcohol with dinner and there are even handy guide cards to help English speakers follow along with sutras. However, it is probably one of the only and best chances that foreigners have to interact with Japanese monks and experience life in a Japanese temple. At this morning prayer, the monk who oversaw it had excellent English and was more than happy to answer our questions on Buddhism and the path to becoming a monk in Japan.

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Breakfast was a very simple affair. Rice, tofu, pickles and miso soup. Interestingly, the monks that had breakfast with us, also chanted another sutra before and after eating. Their breakfast was considerable more spartan, with only soup and rice.

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Seeing as it was still early on in the day we decided to make the most of things and start our sight seeing early. We made our way back through the garan complex, towards the Tokugawa Mausoleum. Even though these two buildings commemorate the first two Tokugawa shogun they are surprisingly small and a little run down.

 

Kongo sanmai in was next on our list of places to check out. I was a little confused at first because it was marked as a rhododendron garden on one of the maps we received. Although the only rhododendrons I saw were starting to wilt, the temple has a lovely little garden and pagoda. I dare say it was one of the better tended gardens in all of Koyasan. I paid a rather modest sum to explore the grounds, but I’m fairly sure that you can also stay in the temple as well.

 

On the far east side of Koyasan is the Okunin temple walk. The grave stones leading up to the main temple feature memorials dedicated to a litany of famous figures, both ancient and recent. We were particularly caught up in the monuments dedicated to famous warriors and leaders in the Sengoku era. We also couldn’t help laughing at some of the more modern monuments, such as this one, which we supposed was commemorating the death of Panasonic.

Photos are not allowed at the main temples dedicated to Kobo Dashi. As a lay person without too much knowledge of esoteric Buddhism I wasn’t too sure what to expect. However, the sheer number of Japanese people, young and old alike making trips out to this area makes it pretty clear just how important this area is.

 

On our way back to collect our luggage we made a brief wagashi pit stop at Kasakuni.
This modest looking store only has a few simple varieties of wagashi, but everything we tried was pretty good. In fact the kurumi mochi was so good I good have easily eaten 5 of them. If it weren’t for all the extra travelling we would have to do I would have bought a box to eat later.

 

Our actual lunch was all the way on the other end of town at KadoGoma tofu. Although the variety lunch was exceedingly pretty it was the udon noodles that really made an impression. The soy milk dashi dipping sauce was far superior to any normal tsuyu I have ever tried.

With the afternoon heat setting in we made our back to Koyasan station. On the way to Osaka, we both slept so well that an elderly Japanese lady woke us up for the transfer! Getting to Osaka station was a sensory overload. The crush of people and maze like streets were almost too much! It was worlds away from the contemplative temples and flora of Koyasan.

 

Luckily, before too long, I tapped into my city girl roots and was ready for a round of exploring and dinner! Enya yakitori was just what I was craving. The highlights were definitely the cheese tsukune, shitake mushrooms and negi yakitori. As an added bonus it was also one of the first opportunities I had to practice my Japanese extensively. Somehow we managed to muddle our way through ordering and made a pretty good night out of things.

Koyasan is not the easiest place to get to, but by and large it is worth the hassle. It would be somewhat misleading to just label it as a place to experience temple lodgings. The austere aspects of monkhood are somewhat glossed over, giving way to a much more tourist friendly experience. Even with the tourist and car traffic this windy mountain town felt unique and just a little bit magical.

 

Tips
A trip to Koyasan is not fully covered by the Japan Rail Pass. We bought the Koyasan World Heritage ticket at Shin-Imamiya station. The regular ticket cost 2,860 yen and covers the round trip from Shin-Imamiya to Koyasan. It also entitles you unlimited bus rides in Koyasan and discounts to some of the attractions.

We were advised to leave behind bulky luggage in Osaka before proceeding to Koyasan. I can not recommend this enough. There are a fair few stairs on the trip to Koyasan. Not to mention the cable car up to the mountain can get very cramped and so can the buses in the town. We left out luggage in the Osaka station coin lockers, but there are also plenty of lockers in Namba station where you can easily stash things.

A nighttime tour of the okunin grave walk was much recommended. We were unable to do it because Yochi-in has a 9pm curfew. However, if you’re keen I suggest either staying somewhere much closer to okunin as many temple lodgings will shut their doors after a certain time at night. An alternate itinerary is to stay in a temple lodgings for one night to experience shokubo and to follow that up with a night in a guest house with no curfew.

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Japan Travel Diary 2017: Kanazawa and Shirakawago

My knowledge of Kanazawa mostly stems from stories that my friends have told me of their exchange days in the city. As a result, my impressions of Kanazawa are surrounded by a soft, warm nostalgic glow even though I have never actually been before. Needless to say, I was keen to finally see the city that made so many of my friends fall totally in love with Japan.

Kanazawa Day 2

Ryan has long reminisced about the fresh seafood bowls from Omicho market in Kanazawa. Although he no longer remembers exactly which store it was that he used to go to many years ago, some internet browsing pulled up a list of tasty looking stores. Yamasan has the advantage of opening at the early time of 7 am. This fit in perfectly with a day of sight seeing.

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We got there a few minutes before opening, but even then there was already a small line. Yamasan is a favourite amongst locals and travellers for their kaisen don which true to the store’s name features a small mountain of seafood! Although it was still very early in the morning everyone at the counter ordered a serving.

Honestly, I’m not too sure about serving some of the items like the crab when they are not in season but it still made for a very satisfying breakfast!

This proved to be the perfect fuel for the start of a long day of walking. Kenrokuen is touted as one of the three most beautiful gardens in Japan.  The large clear expanses of water and soft looking moss were particularly delightful. In late Spring there are some lovely blooms along the water. I’m also told that it is beautiful in winter when everything is pure white and frozen over.

Kanazawa Jou is another popular destination. Although there isn’t too much castle left, the vast spacious grounds and towering walls are still quite the sight. We didn’t stay for too long as it was getting a little warm, but I get the feeling that this would be a nice spot to stay and have a picnic.

Not too far away is the 21st-century museum. Japan has a lot of traditional art and museums, but this is much more fun and whimsical. On the outside of the museum are already an array of interactive exhibits to run amok in.

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Whether or not you actually want to go inside and view the exhibits will depend on your individual tastes and what’s on now. We managed to luck upon Ikeda Manabu’s first solo exhibition in Japan; Ikeda Manabu: The Pen – Condensed Universe. Photos of the exhibit weren’t allowed (so this photo is pulled from the interenet) but being able to see his work in actual scale up close was simply breathtaking. I’ve long since liked his artwork for the fantasy elements and fine details, but being able to see each pen stroke up close was another matter.

We couldn’t leave Kanazawa without eating Sekai de ni ban me Oishi yakitate melon pan aisu. Ryan last fell in love with this ice cream filled snack back on our last trip. Back then we were surprised to learn that this store got its start in Kanazawa. The original store in tatemachi was just as good as it had been last time. Even the strange sounding blueberry cheese somehow worked!

At this point in time Ryan started to get rather sick. We decided to have an early night and sit in our hotel eating oden and other convenience store foods. I have to admit that this is one of our favourite things to do while in Japan when we have nothing else planned.

Kanazawa – Shirakawago Day 3

Still in the habit of waking up early, I made my way over to Curio vintage and café while Ryan slept. This charming cafe is run by an American expat and makes a lovely cup of cinnamon cappuccino. The guys sitting opposite me were also tucking into delicious looking sandwiches.

UNESCO world heritage site Shirakawago is roughly 50 minutes away from Kanazawa and a much recommended day trip. The area is famed for its thatched roof houses. The steep roofs are meant to help the houses stay warm in winter and cool in Summer.

Building and maintaining these houses are incredibly labour intensive so not many of these structures remain in the actual town. In fact, many of the houses from surrounding areas have been moved to the open air museum next to the main town. There’s a small admission fee to get in but in my opinion it’s well worth it. There’s a variety of buildings and far fewer people around, so we were able to explore and climb up to the top of many of the buildings in peace.

Seeing as we were up in the mountains, I was very keen to try some of the local produce. Not only was Inoriya still open late in the afternoon but it was serving up some very fresh vegetables from the region. I’ve never appreciated pickles as much as I did for that meal!

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Houses aside, the Shirakawago region is wonderful for a casual stroll. Although there are a fair few tourists, the remoteness of the region makes walking around very refreshing. For the best view of the town, I highly recommend the short walk up to Shiroyama Viewpoint. During Winter months the trail up is closed due to snow fall, so make sure to head up this way if you have the chance! There’s also a bus that goes up to the view point, but it’s a fairly gentle slope up so we didn’t see the need.

The greenery in this area is amazing and apparently so is the scenery when it is blanketed in snow. I’m hoping that I’ll be able to go back one day and stay overnight in one of the houses!

As it hit late afternoon we took the bus back to Kanazawa, napping the whole way. I realised that we had just enough time to check out Tsuntsun café, which I had seen the first night in Tatemachi. Little known fact: hedgehogs are illegal in Australia. This was the first time I had ever seen let alone touched a hedgehog in real life! Our hedgehog, name Tsunko was rather shy and reticent but very eager to eat all the snacks that we fed it!

I had been rather looking forward to seeing Higashi Chaya as I love traditional Japanese tea houses. However we only managed to visit at night, when it was already well and truly dark. The dimly lit lanterns and soft voices drifting out from some of the stores made the whole thing very atmospheric (maybe even a little creepy?) even though the majority of the stores weren’t open. I was placated by the thought that during the day, that it would be a bit too touristy and crowded, but even then I made a vow in my heart that one day I would be back during the day!

Just across from Higashi Chaya, Oriental Brewing caught my eye. This interesting looking building houses a bar and brewery. I figured that on this cold night, we could do a lot worse than cosy up with some bar food and local beer. The peppery jerk chicken and yuzu ale were definite highlights.

Kanazawa isn’t exactly at the top of most people’s Japan itineraries. However, with the new shinkansen route from Tokyo directly to Kanazawa, I predict that it will only get busier! And with good reason! My first taste of the West coast of Japan left me hungry for more. I would have loved to stay a little longer to better explore some of the more traditional and far flung parts of the town.

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Tips

In Kanazawa, we stayed in Hotel Resol Trinity Kanazawa(https://www.trinity-kanazawa.com/en/). It was about 10-15 minutes walk away from the station and right next to Omicho market. This is a new hotel and it shows. The amenities are new, clean and plentiful. The room itself is also rather spacious and well kept. We found it pretty, easy to walk almost everywhere in Kanazawa although it is well serviced by buses as well.

Getting to Shirakawago from Kanazawa is fairly simple. There is a direct bus from Kanazawa station. We booked online via https://japanbusonline.com/  but there a few JTB outlets near Omicho station and the station which will no doubt be more than happy to organise it for you. If you’re looking to leave Kanazawa early in the morning, it’s probably best to book well in advance as these tickets were all sold out when we tried to purchase them the day before. The bus departed from the platform in front of Forus shopping centre.

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Japan Travel Diary 2017

This trip to Japan crept up on me almost out of nowhere. Before I knew it, I was packing my bags and getting ready to take a 6am flight over to a country which I have visited many times. For me, Japan is both nostalgic and new. A lot of travel and a half year long exchange means that parts of the country are familiar, but every time I visit, I go to new and exciting places. Sometimes, even the familiar has already changed.

For this trip, I spent almost half of the time travelling from place to place, before finally settling into Tokyo for the last two weeks. I’ll be writing up my travels as more of a daily journal, but when it comes to Tokyo I’ll write posts about the more notable places I’ve been to and things I’ve done.

Let’s get into things!

Tokyo Day 0

After a brief stopover at Cairns airport we found ourselves in the new wing of Narita Airport. Terminal 3.

We stayed at Hotel Horidome Villa. This hotel was truly tiny, but the surrounding district was actually charming. Alley after alley of bars filled the streets. The roads were wide and there was almost no one around. In a way, it was refreshing to see this new side of Tokyo.

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I wasn’t up for much adventure on our first night, so dinner ended up being the very familiar Cocoichiba curry. Interestingly, for May their special was soup curry, which is one of my favourite dishes. The soup curry lacked the depth of flavour that a good Hokkaido soup curry will have, but it helped me get my vegetable, protein and carb hit all at once. This was also Ryan’s first time try Cocoichiba!

Although I slept for almost the entire plane ride over to Japan, I still managed to fall asleep like a rock as soon as the lights were turned off.

Tokyo – Kanazawa Day 1

Being the dedicated foodie that I am, I had some big plans for our very first morning in Tokyo.

Echire is a premium brand of French butter that also seems to have a big following in Japan. Half an hour before opening a sizeable line was already outside the tiny little store. Only 10 or so people were allowed in at a time. Every time the door opened the smell of baking and butter filled the air, making my mouth water. Thankfully the line moved rather quickly and within 20 minutes of opening I had a bag full of pastries in my hot little hands.

We bought the whole selection of pastries to share. The traditional croissant, croissant made with salted butter, croissant made with unsalted butter, apple pastry, pain au chocolate, raisin snail, madeline and financier. The 50% echire butter croissants were probably the best of the bunch. Incredibly flaky and very very buttery. It almost seemed like a waste to bake such good buttery into the croissants. However, the apple pastry was also nothing to scoff at either. For a rather pricey 780 Yen this was almost as good to eat as it was beautiful to look at.

My biggest qualm with these baked goods is that they would be significantly improved if served warm. It seemed a shame to see so many hot croissants coming out of the oven but not being able to eat them that way. This seems more like something that you buy to take home and heat up for a leisurely afternoon tea, or to enjoy with friends in the afternoon as opposed to eating it right there.

Straight after sampling these goodies I made sure that we headed straight to Hidemi Sugino to get first dibs on their mousse cakes. I loved these cakes so much they deserved their own blog post. 

Having eaten our fill of sweets it was time to get organised and leave for Kanazawa. Getting to Kanazawa from Tokyo is pretty straightforward with the new Shinkansen line straight to Kanazawa station.

Part of the charm of riding a Shinkansen is the ekiben. Tokyo station may be confusing to navigate but it also boasts a wide range of food options to choose from on your journey. It was impossible to go past the Ekibenya matsuri, located within the station gates on the 1st floor.  It sells specialities from all around Japan and Tokyo.

Ryan was easily convinced by the Shinkansen bento boxes irrespective of the food inside. I chose to go with the Tokyo station exclusive Tokyo bento. Interestingly enough my favourite component turned out to be the vegetables and various pickles. As always the bentos are a real work of art.

When we arrived at 5:30 the sun was starting to set. Kanazawa station is meant to be one of the most beautiful stations in Japan. To be able to see it in real life was really something!

We spent most of the night exploring tatemachi and katamachi. It seems with more new and revamped shopping malls in the area less people were wandering around the streets. Right next to the animate store in katamachi, I managed to find both an Angelic Pretty and Baby the stars shine bright store.

By chance we stumbled upon ABRI. Ramen shop by day and bar with ramen at night! I was attracted by the adorable cat logo, and in all honestly wasn’t expecting all that much from the food at such a random location. What we ended up having far exceeded my expectations.

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Shoyu chasu ramen was a simple dish, but done exceedingly well. The broth rich with umami flavour from a mix of seafood and meat, the noodles were thin, al dente and when combined with the chasu, served as the perfect re-introduction to Japanese ramen.

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The lobster soup ramen with cheese is without a doubt the most unique ramen that I have ever tried. This somehow tasted exactly like a baked lobster tail with cheese but in ramen form! Everything about this was like a strange French, Italian, Japanese fusion but somehow it all worked together. The lobster soup was also intensely flavoured, and I loved dishing it up with the accompanying rice and savouring every bite.

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As a bar ABRI also had a decent selection of craft beers, including beers from Kanazawa brewery on tap!

After dinner, the wind really started to pick up so we made the executive decision to go back to the hotel and get an early night’s sleep for an early start tomorrow.

I know it seems like I travel a lot from my blog posts, but the reality is, I spend far too long writing up travel posts! I’m hoping to rectify this situation by writing up more posts while in the country, like this one.

(PS. I’m currently back in Australia and let me tell you, that did not work out all too well!! Watch me write up many a blog post to make up for this backlog)

Tips
Pocket Wifi or sim card? Last time I went to Japan we decided on pocket wifi, but this time I picked up a sim card from the airport. As I’m staying for more days, the sim card seems more economical and allows more flexibility re: data use and duration. Although I picked up a card from the only provider in terminal 3, there’s many more options and deals in terminal 1. The main downside is that, I’m the only person with internet. If we need to check google maps or anything else, my phone has to be charged. Furthermore, only I have internet so we have to stick together a lot!

There’s multiple ways to get from Narita airport to inner city Tokyo. Although it is more expensive than the other options I’m a big fan of the keisei skyliner. It is speedy, the seats are all allocated and there’s ample room for luggage. As an added bonus, it is also possible to purchase a ticket that combines this with 24 hours of continuous subway use. We found this super useful since our hotel was closest to a subway line.

 

Padre Coffee East Brunswick

Padre Coffee is a big name in the Melbourne coffee scene. After a little bit of research, I also learnt that Padre means father in many languages. It seemed appropriate to be visiting their East Brunswick store where it all began with my very own father (and mother). As soon as I entered the store the heady smell of coffee beans filled the air. It all makes sense as soon as you see the coffee roaster on premise.

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The large latte arrived in a bowl! This is my mum’s favourite cup of coffee, smooth and strong without a trace of acidity. On the other hand, a regular cappuccino comes in a normal cup. The froth on top is just as beautiful as that of the latte!

padre tea

I had a Yunnan green tea instead of coffee because I was still feeling a bit unwell. I appreciated how they took the time and care to brew a proper pot of green tea, instead of just filling a pot with boiling water like some cafes are wont to do. It was a touch too cold, on the lower end of 70 degrees perhaps due to not sufficiently warming the pot or cup.

For such a large venue there’s not much in the way of food, but that’s just fine because the real focus is on the coffee. That’s not to say that the small selection of pastries isn’t delicious. We shared a flaky ham scroll that went perfectly with the coffees.

Adjoined to the cafe, there’s also a veritable cornucopia of coffee making supplies. If you’re in the market for anything coffee related or even just a cup (or bowl!) of coffee this is the place to go.

padre coffee

https://shop.padrecoffee.com.au/
Padre Coffee Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

By Josephine

I’ve never been to Paris before. However, if it is anything like By Josephine I can see why so many others are enamoured with it. It somehow manages to be effortlessly classy and whimsical all at once. The interior would look perfectly at home in a shabby chic Pinterest inspiration board. The pastry display is offset with a beautiful glow of light. I daresay it would be impossible to walk in and leave empty handed. In fact, I also bought a canele and pistachio and raspberry croissant for later!

By Josephine high tea

On this occasion, I was partaking in a leisurely high tea with friends. The high tea offers a wide selection of drinks, from tea (hot or cold), coffees and even juice. It’s hard to go past a traditional pot of hot tea when sweets are involved. The Detox Tea was pleasantly somewhere between green and herbal tea.

By Josephine tea

A selection of macarons accompanied the tea. The flavours were pistachio, chocolate and salted caramal. In terms of flavour the pistachio was my favourite, but it certainly doesn’t beat the black sesame that By Josephine also puts out. Impressively, all the macarons at By Josephine are made by hand rather than machine!

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As always savouries were on the bottom tier of the stand. The chicken & tarragon pain au lait looked incredibly inviting, with a glistening sheen to the pain au lait bun. I liked the bursts of tarragon but found myself wishing that the bread was a little bit warmer and softer. Palmiers remind me of my childhood. I loved going to the bakery with my parents and picking out the largest and flakiest palmier covered with sugar crystals to snack on. Biting into the tapenade & sundried tomato palmier was just like revisiting that joy but as an adult. The cheese gougère is definitely one for cheese lovers. The rich goat’s cheese sat neatly in the light choux pastry. I don’t entirely remember what the square pastry was, but I will say that it reminded me of a pizza in the best way.It wouldn’t be a French high tea without a buttery quiche to help round off the savoury plate.

By Josephine brule

The top most tier contained a small pot of lavender infused crème brûlée and cubes of grapefruit marshmallow. I am a bit of a sucker for home made marshmallows and lavender so it was a nor brainer that I would love both of these. Thankfully the crème brûlée was flavoured with a light hand so it didn’t taste soapy.

By Josephine sweets

That just leaves the middle tier of even more sweet treats! Pistachio bread and butter pudding with raspberry coulis and custard on top was a wonderful twist on an old classic. I imagine this would be even better served warm straight from the baking tray. Spiced biscuits were a surprise hit! Crispy and full of warm cinnamon flavour, I could have easily eaten a handful. The raspberry and chocolate tartelette was probably the richest part of the whole tea. I struggled to finish everything else after eating this. So much so that I ended up taking the rose & raspberry tea cake home to give to my mum.

The 3 tiered stand was so full that our madeleines didn’t fit on! Sadly this means that I forgot to take a photo of them. You’ll just have to trust me when I say that they were small, cute and perfect dipped in tea.

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By Josephine also offers a vegetarian and gluten free high tea menu. The gluten free set that my friends shared looked likewise plentiful and delicious.

At $42 this high tea a real bargain for the incredible selection of food! In eschewing the usual scones and sandwiches By Josephine makes every item in the high tea seem exciting and different. My only real gripe is that it only includes one drink. In typical French style, there is plenty of butter and some of the foods are very rich so it’s a bit difficult to finish them without a drink to offset the heaviness. I found myself ordering another pot of peppermint tea halfway through tea service.

By Josephine display

P.S. On the website it states that high tea is only for the duration of 1.5 hours, but this doesn’t seem to be strictly enforced if the store isn’t busy.

http://macaronsbyjosephine.com.au/
By Josephine Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato